 hen it comes to quintessential spring (through fall) wardrobe accoutrements that no self-respecting gentleman (nor sartorialist) should be left without, a proper (preferably bespoke) umbrella is a timeless staple with an old-world charm to its account that deserves (at the least) all due consideration as well as (and better yet) pride of place in ones daily wardrobe rotation. |
Having dutifully earned its iconic status as an endearingly masculine accessory (and proper sartorial accentuation) that reflectively bespeaks unto the discerning character of a man of truly impeccable style, umbrellas are handsome, characteristically understated, elegantly refined, and buoyed by what has become a deep, rich, and (connotatively) flattering cultural cache and history (having hobnobbed with and accompanied every sort from Kings/Queens through silver-screen spies).
Truly the gentleman's "sword of the city” in spirit and at heart, they can be deployed in a myriad of contexts and situations: from strictly cutting through torrid downpours at ones behest or dually functioning as a capable walking cane through that of being a proper finishing touch to any outfit too perhaps even serving as improvisational weapon fit for self-defence that is capable of repelling unwanted advances from nefarious solicitors and criminals alike.
An undoubtably fine, dashing, reliable and sharp companion that is equally at home when paired with immaculately tailored formalwear as it is alongside one's hardy country or soft leisurewear, the only real question you should be asking yourself is what type of umbrella best tickles your fancy or (better yet) suits your personal style?
It could take the form of a classic straight, modern telescopic (read: capable of changing lengths) or a traditional walking stick (or cane) umbrella; be automatic or manual in function; arrive with a solid black (for formal occasions/business), Breton-striped or a heritage plaid canopy; and be otherwise marked by an eccentrically festooned gemstone handle or rather anchored more capably by a sturdy Whangee (bamboo) crook…the avenues and options for customization are near endless in truth.
Naturally, my point being is that you are certainly spoilt for choice to say the least, especially so when you take into account that no matter what form it ultimately takes you can rest assured that it will be a worthwhile lifelong investment that is capable of instantly enhancing — as well as maintaining — your look (not to mention placing you a stylish step above your umbrella deprived contemporaries) whether its intended use is strictly practical (to keep you high or dry) or rather that of being playfully ornamental ( i.e. to accentuate your everyday attire (rain or shine) in a most becoming manner).
Truly the gentleman's "sword of the city” in spirit and at heart, they can be deployed in a myriad of contexts and situations: from strictly cutting through torrid downpours at ones behest or dually functioning as a capable walking cane through that of being a proper finishing touch to any outfit too perhaps even serving as improvisational weapon fit for self-defence that is capable of repelling unwanted advances from nefarious solicitors and criminals alike.
An undoubtably fine, dashing, reliable and sharp companion that is equally at home when paired with immaculately tailored formalwear as it is alongside one's hardy country or soft leisurewear, the only real question you should be asking yourself is what type of umbrella best tickles your fancy or (better yet) suits your personal style?
It could take the form of a classic straight, modern telescopic (read: capable of changing lengths) or a traditional walking stick (or cane) umbrella; be automatic or manual in function; arrive with a solid black (for formal occasions/business), Breton-striped or a heritage plaid canopy; and be otherwise marked by an eccentrically festooned gemstone handle or rather anchored more capably by a sturdy Whangee (bamboo) crook…the avenues and options for customization are near endless in truth.
Naturally, my point being is that you are certainly spoilt for choice to say the least, especially so when you take into account that no matter what form it ultimately takes you can rest assured that it will be a worthwhile lifelong investment that is capable of instantly enhancing — as well as maintaining — your look (not to mention placing you a stylish step above your umbrella deprived contemporaries) whether its intended use is strictly practical (to keep you high or dry) or rather that of being playfully ornamental ( i.e. to accentuate your everyday attire (rain or shine) in a most becoming manner).
Characteristically polished, durable, sophisticated, and worth every (pinched) penny it took to acquire it, a proper umbrella is something that is eminently capable of and perhaps even destined to become an indispensable pillar of your signature style that you will set about town every day (rain or shine) carrying with pride rather then on rare occasion (i.e. rainy days) with a feeling of obligational disdain in hand.
That being said, lets briefly touch upon its history now shall we…
Having, since conception (give-or-take until the 19th century), served at the exclusive behest and sole preserve of high-borne nobility and all manner of royalty (often used in ceremonial and celebratory occasions) worldwide, the original umbrella (and I use that term loosely in this context) first arrived upon the fashion scene in the form of the sun (not water) beating “parasol" some three-thousand odd years ago in the Orient.
For centuries thereafter marked by a deeply ingrained and prominently aristocratic spirit, if one were to cut through its culturally vast and rich past and present what they would find is a rather exalted timeline of prolonged prominence marked by the fact that the umbrella remained in the popular eye in spite of it never truly having undergone a characteristic or structural evolution. On the contrary, it has otherwise experienced what can only be deemed a rather quite and natural progression (rather then evolution) that has culminated in its basic form and structure being left relatively unadulterated for the greater parts of its centuries long existence — it is a truly rare fashion entity unlike any other that did not need to drastically evolve to stay relevant (read: truly trend proof).
So much so, in fact, that should you simply skip forward the modern age what you will realize is that the only profound and character-altering change that it has undergone is cultural (rather then physical) in nature.
That being said, lets briefly touch upon its history now shall we…
Having, since conception (give-or-take until the 19th century), served at the exclusive behest and sole preserve of high-borne nobility and all manner of royalty (often used in ceremonial and celebratory occasions) worldwide, the original umbrella (and I use that term loosely in this context) first arrived upon the fashion scene in the form of the sun (not water) beating “parasol" some three-thousand odd years ago in the Orient.
For centuries thereafter marked by a deeply ingrained and prominently aristocratic spirit, if one were to cut through its culturally vast and rich past and present what they would find is a rather exalted timeline of prolonged prominence marked by the fact that the umbrella remained in the popular eye in spite of it never truly having undergone a characteristic or structural evolution. On the contrary, it has otherwise experienced what can only be deemed a rather quite and natural progression (rather then evolution) that has culminated in its basic form and structure being left relatively unadulterated for the greater parts of its centuries long existence — it is a truly rare fashion entity unlike any other that did not need to drastically evolve to stay relevant (read: truly trend proof).
So much so, in fact, that should you simply skip forward the modern age what you will realize is that the only profound and character-altering change that it has undergone is cultural (rather then physical) in nature.
To that effect, one could pinpoint two landmark moments that occurred during the slow trickling down process that saw it being eventually eschewed by those who were once its crowning champions (read: the upper echelons of society) as it became more commonplace in the wardrobes of the grand populace (and average man) at large.
The first being the banning of the sword and subsequent falling out of favour of the cane (which had replaced the sword in the city); and the second being the introduction (and thereafter affordability/availability) of water-repellent materials. The latter of which is of particular note as it essentially transformed the umbrella from what was a predominately ornamental accessory into a more practical, diplomatic and humble (unisex) accoutrement fit for all of humankind to enjoy.
That, of course, brings me full circle to the present day, a time and age in which the umbrella is available in a quite vast and variably incomparable array of materials and styles unlike any other period in its existence.
And yet in spite of there never being as many options at ones creative disposal to tinker and toy with as they see fit, I’m truly saddened to say that this once prominent and indispensable wardrobe stalwart has all but fallen to the (cheaply peddled) wayside to the effect of it rarely being “worn” (or affixed to a gent hand) on a daily basis should there be no threat of rain in the forecast.
Cognizant of such a (sartorially) disheartening reality, as well as the fact (or perhaps it is a personal notion?) that the umbrella has endured what has become a prolonged and unwarranted turn in the fashionable doldrums for far too long, I do hope that it rises from the ashes and retakes its sartorial throne as the must-have accoutrement of choice for gentlemen world round for it does indeed, as the sage Mr. Oscar Lenius once so eloquently noted, truly merit the respect that has been denied to it in the modern era.
The first being the banning of the sword and subsequent falling out of favour of the cane (which had replaced the sword in the city); and the second being the introduction (and thereafter affordability/availability) of water-repellent materials. The latter of which is of particular note as it essentially transformed the umbrella from what was a predominately ornamental accessory into a more practical, diplomatic and humble (unisex) accoutrement fit for all of humankind to enjoy.
That, of course, brings me full circle to the present day, a time and age in which the umbrella is available in a quite vast and variably incomparable array of materials and styles unlike any other period in its existence.
And yet in spite of there never being as many options at ones creative disposal to tinker and toy with as they see fit, I’m truly saddened to say that this once prominent and indispensable wardrobe stalwart has all but fallen to the (cheaply peddled) wayside to the effect of it rarely being “worn” (or affixed to a gent hand) on a daily basis should there be no threat of rain in the forecast.
Cognizant of such a (sartorially) disheartening reality, as well as the fact (or perhaps it is a personal notion?) that the umbrella has endured what has become a prolonged and unwarranted turn in the fashionable doldrums for far too long, I do hope that it rises from the ashes and retakes its sartorial throne as the must-have accoutrement of choice for gentlemen world round for it does indeed, as the sage Mr. Oscar Lenius once so eloquently noted, truly merit the respect that has been denied to it in the modern era.
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Howbeit, today I am here to champion the umbrella as such and to reflect upon the belief that there are indeed definitive lifelong merits (beyond the practical efficiency) to investing in a proper umbrella that will provide not only guaranteed (and highly stylized) defence against the elements but a possible reprieve from sartorial mundanity as well.
Capable of giving off an impressionable aura of earnest sartorial sensibility which is earmarked by a tastefully unique and distinctive characteristic flair, it goes without saying that the umbrella has now long ago shred its Royal exclusivity and ludicrous connotations as an apparatus of “mincing Frenchmen” (as they were once held in contempt when first introduced in England) in respects to once again being fully deserving of its pride of place as an indispensable part of the modern gentleman’s uniform.
So, should you be in pursuit of adding this once proud, strong and astute hallmark of genteel manners, refined taste and innate masculinity to your sartorial arsenal, I’m here to tell you that the best brollies available today (as they have been throughout history) remain fashioned and affixed with solid wooden (or alternatively metal) shafts that are accompanied by all manner of intricately cut (as well as ornate) handles that are properly finished off with a range of industrious (and highly stylized) canopies cut from a broad spectrum of waterproof fabrics ranging from dutiful nylons and waxed cottons through rich satins and luxurious silks.
But where should you begin?
I’d say the handle, which is where an (exquisitely crafted) umbrella gives off (and will acquire) much of its characteristic spirit and appeal in addition to that of its baseline price tag — it is the sole component in which one is afforded the opportunity to demonstrate their individualism (save that of ubiquitous canopy designs/styles).
Traditionally of burnished hard woods, with whangee cane (a type of bamboo) or malacca being the most prominent and refined of considered options should city wear be strictly in mind, talented artisans and heritage craftsmen have made it plausible to have nearly any variation of carved wood on the planet as well as crystal, leather, and even metal as the basis in which the foundation of the handle can be derived from should the right price be met.
Insofar as that, there is most assuredly a model or (rakish) treatment that will speak to most any taste, need or desire.
Capable of giving off an impressionable aura of earnest sartorial sensibility which is earmarked by a tastefully unique and distinctive characteristic flair, it goes without saying that the umbrella has now long ago shred its Royal exclusivity and ludicrous connotations as an apparatus of “mincing Frenchmen” (as they were once held in contempt when first introduced in England) in respects to once again being fully deserving of its pride of place as an indispensable part of the modern gentleman’s uniform.
So, should you be in pursuit of adding this once proud, strong and astute hallmark of genteel manners, refined taste and innate masculinity to your sartorial arsenal, I’m here to tell you that the best brollies available today (as they have been throughout history) remain fashioned and affixed with solid wooden (or alternatively metal) shafts that are accompanied by all manner of intricately cut (as well as ornate) handles that are properly finished off with a range of industrious (and highly stylized) canopies cut from a broad spectrum of waterproof fabrics ranging from dutiful nylons and waxed cottons through rich satins and luxurious silks.
But where should you begin?
I’d say the handle, which is where an (exquisitely crafted) umbrella gives off (and will acquire) much of its characteristic spirit and appeal in addition to that of its baseline price tag — it is the sole component in which one is afforded the opportunity to demonstrate their individualism (save that of ubiquitous canopy designs/styles).
Traditionally of burnished hard woods, with whangee cane (a type of bamboo) or malacca being the most prominent and refined of considered options should city wear be strictly in mind, talented artisans and heritage craftsmen have made it plausible to have nearly any variation of carved wood on the planet as well as crystal, leather, and even metal as the basis in which the foundation of the handle can be derived from should the right price be met.
Insofar as that, there is most assuredly a model or (rakish) treatment that will speak to most any taste, need or desire.
Photo: Mr. Slowboy Offering centuries of heritage craftsmanship and having been bestowed with heaps of world renown, one would be hard-pressed to unearth finer masters of the umbrella then such old-world specialists as James Smith & Sons (since 1830), Fox Umbrellas (circa 1868) or perhaps even Swaine Adeney Brigg (established 1750).
Of course, you could also find many highly fashionable (read: more affordable but yet ever as industrious) models from highly regarded modern brands such as London Undercover or Fulton as well as ornate decorative alternatives from the likes of renowned British (Burberry, Aquascutum or Hackett come to mind) and Italian (Francesco Maglia, Mario Talarico, or Pasotti) fashion houses. And for those on a tight budget, theres also Brooks Brothers in addition to Paul Smith, Hunter, and Ted Baker (to name but a select few) who all offer fashionable takes on the traditional brolly as well.
Handle varieties (see below for a more in depth visual representation) and trusted brands aside, lets turn our gaze unto that of the colour palette and material construction of the canopy.
Again it can be said that you are surely not deprived of options as black no longer rests as the sole option befitting a gentleman as is evident in all the heritage tartans, playful stripes and polka dots, and brightly hued and peacockish oranges and yellows that now litter the market. In such regards, and of peculiar note when choosing an umbrella (canopy) hue, is that of the golden rule of colour which informs upon the notion that the more formal (or business leaning) the umbrella, the darker its cloth and canvas should be (with brightly hued iterations be reserved for leisurely pursuits or sporting events).
Colour and style/design aside, I believe that all that is left to discuss is that of material construction of the canopy itself. Available in both heavy and light-gauge waterproofed cottons, silks and (to be avoided if possible) synthetics (with a few other opulent alternatives making a rare appearance), any variation thereof cotton or silk is what I would strongly recommend and advise.
Characteristic nuances not withstanding, I do hope that I’ve been successful in bringing to the fore that the importance of quality (as well as comfort) cannot be overstated when endeavouring to buying a bespoke or luxury umbrella (as well as your entire wardrobe at-large for that matter).
So, be sure to read up on reviews, ask where the materials have been sourced from as well as if they arrive with a lifetime warrantee (or replacement/repair program), and (above all else) to be sure that the style and handle you opt for is not only a natural reflection of your character and intent but that it will effortlessly blend into the environment you are most likely to employ it in (lest you desire being the gent who is cast many a sneer at for bringing his neon orange brolly with a carved fox head to the office).
Of course, you could also find many highly fashionable (read: more affordable but yet ever as industrious) models from highly regarded modern brands such as London Undercover or Fulton as well as ornate decorative alternatives from the likes of renowned British (Burberry, Aquascutum or Hackett come to mind) and Italian (Francesco Maglia, Mario Talarico, or Pasotti) fashion houses. And for those on a tight budget, theres also Brooks Brothers in addition to Paul Smith, Hunter, and Ted Baker (to name but a select few) who all offer fashionable takes on the traditional brolly as well.
Handle varieties (see below for a more in depth visual representation) and trusted brands aside, lets turn our gaze unto that of the colour palette and material construction of the canopy.
Again it can be said that you are surely not deprived of options as black no longer rests as the sole option befitting a gentleman as is evident in all the heritage tartans, playful stripes and polka dots, and brightly hued and peacockish oranges and yellows that now litter the market. In such regards, and of peculiar note when choosing an umbrella (canopy) hue, is that of the golden rule of colour which informs upon the notion that the more formal (or business leaning) the umbrella, the darker its cloth and canvas should be (with brightly hued iterations be reserved for leisurely pursuits or sporting events).
Colour and style/design aside, I believe that all that is left to discuss is that of material construction of the canopy itself. Available in both heavy and light-gauge waterproofed cottons, silks and (to be avoided if possible) synthetics (with a few other opulent alternatives making a rare appearance), any variation thereof cotton or silk is what I would strongly recommend and advise.
Characteristic nuances not withstanding, I do hope that I’ve been successful in bringing to the fore that the importance of quality (as well as comfort) cannot be overstated when endeavouring to buying a bespoke or luxury umbrella (as well as your entire wardrobe at-large for that matter).
So, be sure to read up on reviews, ask where the materials have been sourced from as well as if they arrive with a lifetime warrantee (or replacement/repair program), and (above all else) to be sure that the style and handle you opt for is not only a natural reflection of your character and intent but that it will effortlessly blend into the environment you are most likely to employ it in (lest you desire being the gent who is cast many a sneer at for bringing his neon orange brolly with a carved fox head to the office).
Beyond that, and before you peruse the shopping edit below, I’d just like to (re)state that the umbrella is truly the perfect sartorial antidote to unpredictable weather whether you fancy yours being hand-crafted with an animal head, in proper walking stick form (crafted from a single piece of wood that giving off the dandified effects of the gents of sartorial yesteryear), compact and telescopic (read: collapsable), or industrious and oversized (i.e. the bubble).
A profoundly sharp and well-rounded companion of endearing refinement that is a sartorialist’s delight and whose distinctive pedigree is immediately apparent to those with a discerning eye for subtle detail and luxurious craftsmanship, this most humble of characteristic accentuations will impart upon its bearer a most graceful contour and considered distinction whilst proving itself a wise and worthy investment for years to come.
With that in mind, in addition to taking to heart the ideal of not letting the weather get you down nor of letting your sartorial standards slip whilst you usher in spring with sartorial aplomb, I dare say that there is indeed no better time then the present to invest in a proper brolly befitting not only the tastes of a gentleman but of the fickle weather soon to befall us all.
A profoundly sharp and well-rounded companion of endearing refinement that is a sartorialist’s delight and whose distinctive pedigree is immediately apparent to those with a discerning eye for subtle detail and luxurious craftsmanship, this most humble of characteristic accentuations will impart upon its bearer a most graceful contour and considered distinction whilst proving itself a wise and worthy investment for years to come.
With that in mind, in addition to taking to heart the ideal of not letting the weather get you down nor of letting your sartorial standards slip whilst you usher in spring with sartorial aplomb, I dare say that there is indeed no better time then the present to invest in a proper brolly befitting not only the tastes of a gentleman but of the fickle weather soon to befall us all.
| Be that as it may, what follows is a well-considered collection of hand-made (often bespoke) umbrellas (in both traditional manual and modern automatic form) for your shopping pleasure. Some are explicitly fashioned with aesthetics at the fore whilst others have been affixed with the capability to withstand all manner of thunderstorms and gale-force winds; not to be lost amongst the shuffle either are a select few that are either travel ready (read: compact and disassembly ready), oversized (ie. golf or doorman iterations that are capable of providing coverage for multiple persons), or simply styled with the peculiar tastes of the one-and-only Her Royal Majesty Queen Elizabeth (and the British Royal family at large) of England in mind — the latter of which arrives in the form of the tall and translucent dome-shaped bubble whose protection from the elements is perhaps peerless. |  Photo: Mr. Slowboy |
A deep well and vast cornucopia of styles, in other words, that is sure to please what is a broad spectrum of tastes and explicit applicational needs.
Purposefully chosen for their innate ability to embody the spirit of the modern gentleman whilst reflecting upon his refined tastes and characteristic depth, each one of these brolly's is capable — in both utility and aesthetics — of not only merely nullifying the drudgery of foul weather but of stealing the spotlight and helping mark the umbrellas resurgent comeback as the essential accoutrement of choice (and hallmark of genteel stye) for those who ascribe to and harbour a classic sense of elevated sartorial fortitude that is unfaltering in its characteristic consistency whether beset with rain or shine.
So, and without further or ado, and with those who hold this once high and mighty bastion of gentlemanly masculinity in high esteem as well as the many amongst us who are simply searching for a fresh way to instantly elevate their style (or to take it to the next level), here’s a few considered selections that any gentleman of style would be glad to get caught in the rain with…
Purposefully chosen for their innate ability to embody the spirit of the modern gentleman whilst reflecting upon his refined tastes and characteristic depth, each one of these brolly's is capable — in both utility and aesthetics — of not only merely nullifying the drudgery of foul weather but of stealing the spotlight and helping mark the umbrellas resurgent comeback as the essential accoutrement of choice (and hallmark of genteel stye) for those who ascribe to and harbour a classic sense of elevated sartorial fortitude that is unfaltering in its characteristic consistency whether beset with rain or shine.
So, and without further or ado, and with those who hold this once high and mighty bastion of gentlemanly masculinity in high esteem as well as the many amongst us who are simply searching for a fresh way to instantly elevate their style (or to take it to the next level), here’s a few considered selections that any gentleman of style would be glad to get caught in the rain with…
Kisha (Smart Umbrella) . $99.95 .
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Umbrello In Corvo Di Cervo {Carved Wood} . € 400,00 .
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James Smith & Sons {Carved Hare/Rabbit Head} . £79.17 .
James Smith & Sons {Airedale/Sherlock} || Burberry {Duck Head} || Alexander McQueen {Gemstone Skull; unavailable}
Francesco Maglia (Polka Dot} || London Undercover {Orange/Yellow} || Original Duckhead {Checked Grid}
Mario Talarico {Eagle Horn} || Francesco Maglia {Leather Crook}
And five reasons why the umbrella deserves pride of place in your wardrobe…
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| At once deadly and dashing (much alike a certain spy), perhaps not. Dashing and debonair on the other hand, most assuredly. Either or, the umbrella is a timeless and (highly stylized) logical solution to most any rainy day dressage conundrum. Having arguably been featured in the wardrobe of man since the day he began to properly attire himself, this crowning, humble, and mushroom shaped accessory has for eons been an indispensable accoutrement that has presided over many a smartly attired master as though it were a sartorial guardian angel tasked with not merely keeping him comfortably dry but sartorially high and mighty through variable thick-and-thin. To such an extent, I do believe that it would not be a reach to hereby proclaim that it holds a permanent position in the gilded pantheon of gentlemanly accoutrements due in no small part to its dateless appearance and effortless coalesce of imparted style and substance. |  Image: Pinterest |
In retrospect, it is the one foul weather accessory that rules them all, a necessity for any self-respecting gentleman that gives off the impression of a man of true style who is prepared for most anything.
In its peak form (and at its finest) when fashioned to be characteristically sleek, handsomely understated, and (above all) sturdy, when choosing your own brolly you must take into question not only its style and looks (as outlined above) but such considerations as its size, where you intend upon using it (city vs. country), and the explicit nature of the elements it will likely be tasked with combatting on a regular basis (from extreme winds through rain, sleet or perhaps even snow or even sun).
At the ends of the day, it must be said that it is all but guaranteed to instantly transform any gent into a more capable, gentlemanly, and, much akin to that of a fine watch, stylish individual for decades to come.
As such, the umbrellas is — to put it simply — a quintessential habiliment that every elegant gentleman worth his weight in sartorial gold deserves to have at his creative disposal; a piece that will add that subtle yet profound hint of vintage, bygone gentlemanly class that is in rather short supply and lacking these days.
So, here’s to recasting the brolly in a new light and hitting refresh on this multi-faceted, timeless rainy day accessory — one truly for the ages and ageless.
Sword of the city (and endearing shield of character) indeed!
In its peak form (and at its finest) when fashioned to be characteristically sleek, handsomely understated, and (above all) sturdy, when choosing your own brolly you must take into question not only its style and looks (as outlined above) but such considerations as its size, where you intend upon using it (city vs. country), and the explicit nature of the elements it will likely be tasked with combatting on a regular basis (from extreme winds through rain, sleet or perhaps even snow or even sun).
At the ends of the day, it must be said that it is all but guaranteed to instantly transform any gent into a more capable, gentlemanly, and, much akin to that of a fine watch, stylish individual for decades to come.
As such, the umbrellas is — to put it simply — a quintessential habiliment that every elegant gentleman worth his weight in sartorial gold deserves to have at his creative disposal; a piece that will add that subtle yet profound hint of vintage, bygone gentlemanly class that is in rather short supply and lacking these days.
So, here’s to recasting the brolly in a new light and hitting refresh on this multi-faceted, timeless rainy day accessory — one truly for the ages and ageless.
Sword of the city (and endearing shield of character) indeed!
Share your thoughts and opinions…
Do you own a luxury, bespoke or perhaps even high-street umbrella? If so, what type of handle does it have and where did you commission it from?
Share your musings, anecdotes and opinions below…
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